Mitsu Iwasaki is the CEO of the American Alpine Club (AAC), a historic and storied organization whose mission is to “share and support our passion for climbing and respect for the places we climb.” Founded in 1902, the AAC began as a social club for east coast elites who shared a passion for climbing, adventure, and conservation. But over the past 119 years, the AAC has evolved into an open and equitable organization, which provides “knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community.” Mitsu took the helm of the AAC in the summer of 2020, ushering in a new phase for the Club’s growth and focus.
Mitsu was born in Japan but immigrated to Seattle with his family when he was six years old. In high school, at the urging of his father, Mitsu began spending his summers working on commercial fishing boats in Alaska, experiences that he credits as the genesis of his lifelong pursuit of adventure. He attended college in Washington State at the foot of the Cascade Mountains, then spent years as an Outward Bound instructor– successfully merging his love of climbing, skiing, and adventure with his career. A graduate degree in nonprofit management propelled Mitsu into leadership positions with several outdoor recreation organizations, which led him to his new role at the AAC.
For anyone interested in melding personal passions with lofty career aspirations, Mitsu’s life story will be both inspiring and instructional. We had a fascinating conservation covering everything from his days as a climber living out of his van to his current focus of creating more equitable access in the climbing community. We started by discussing the AAC– its history, goals, and evolution over nearly 120 years. We then talked about Mitsu’s personal background– moving to the US as a child, adjusting to life in the US while maintaining close connections to his Japanese heritage, lessons learned from working in commercial fishing, and experiences as an outdoor educator. We talk about his vision for the AAC, and he explains AAC’s exciting new equity initiative known as Climb United. We also discuss his mentors, favorite books, the best advice he’s ever received, and Mitsu offers some useful parting words of wisdom.
Be sure to check the episode note for a complete list of topics and links to everything we covered. Hope you enjoy.
Images courtesy of Mitsu Iwasaki
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EPISODE NOTES
Topics Discussed:
- 3:40 – Mitsu explains the history of American Alpine Club (AAC)
- 6:40 – Mitsu discusses programs and projects of AAC
- 9:25 – Mitsu discusses his role as CEO of AAC
- 12:10 – Mitsu explains some of his goals to adapt the AAC
- 14:10 – Mitsu discusses AAC’s work in the arena of climate change
- 19:10 –Mitsu discusses his early life and how he became interested in the outdoors, including his time spent on an Alaskan fishing boat
- 28:10 – Mitsu discusses his prior career with Outward Bound and his thoughts on experiential education
- 33:40 – Mitsu discusses his transition from outdoor enthusiast to executive
- 37:25 – Mitsu talks about his mentor, Brendan Leonard
- 41:25 – Mitsu talks about the AAC program, Climb United, and equity in the sport of climbing
- 48:55 – Mitsu’s book recommendations
- 52:25 – The best piece of advice Mitsu ever received
- 53:40 – Mitsu’s parting advice
Information Referenced:
- American Alpine Club
- International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA)
- 10th Mountain Division
- 1939 attempt on K2
- 1963 first American expedition on Mt. Everest
- Glenn E. Porzak
- AAC Library
- Phil Powers
- Kamakura
- Shogun
- Bellevue, WA
- Anchorage, AK
- Naknek, AK
- Bristol Bay
- Chignik, AK
- Sebastian Junger
- Outward Bound
- National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS)
- Brady Robinson
- Big City Mountaineers
- Brendan Leonard
- Climb United
- Leave No Trace (LNT)
- Marc Reisner
- Wallace Stegner
- Nina McConigley
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